Where is the biggest wave in the world? Would you know how to answer this question? Surely Hawaii or Teahupo’o comes to mind. If you were thinking of one of these two, you are wrong. The biggest wave in the world is much closer than you think. It is in Portugal, specifically in the municipality of Nazaré. Nazaré is a town with 10,100 inhabitants, bathed by the Atlantic Ocean. We tell you everything!
NAZARÉ: A MUST-SEE DESTINATION
Nazaré is a coastal town with a mild climate, with a long fishing tradition. This town is world-famous for its beach, the Praia do Norte, which stretches from Cabo de Sitio to the fishing port. Historically, Nazaré lived off the fishing business, but gradually this has been replaced by tourism, although it still retains that inherited character. Many of the old fishermen's houses are now modern hotels, but many residents still wear traditional fishing clothes. The streets still breathe that fishing heritage, with fishmongers still intact, and in the afternoons you can see fishermen arriving at the coast with nets full of fish…
Nazaré is a place that every summer attracts many tourists from all over the world who want to enjoy their vacations. It's no surprise, Nazaré has it all: top-notch gastronomy, nature, atmosphere, fun… From elegant restaurants where you can eat good fish and seafood, beach bars and bars to have a drink at sunset, parties, excursions… But let's be honest, the main attraction of Nazaré for tourists is its famous wave, at Praia do Norte. Although it welcomes tourists of all ages and with different interests, most who travel to Nazaré do so to witness that colossal wave. And it's no wonder, the Nazaré wave surpasses all others, it is the biggest wave in the world, breaking its own record every year. In winter many surfers come to this beach to ride this giant wave. You have to be brave, be in excellent physical shape... be a little crazy, honestly. Could you say why that beastly wave forms?
WHY DOES THIS WAVE FORM?
It's a good question, especially since something curious happens on this beach. You can go one day and be amazed by an immeasurable wave, or find the sea with not very big waves. We are going to reveal to you the secret of this wave, so that if you decide to go, you know when the most incredible wave will be born.
In Nazaré there is an underwater canyon, the Nazaré Canyon. More than 5000m deep and spanning about 230 km, it is the largest marine gorge in all of Europe. Atlantic storms produce very large waves that, when they reach the continental shelf (surface of the seabed), that is, as they approach the coast, their size, strength, and speed decrease. What happens in Nazaré? There are 3 factors that produce this wave. The first: the canyon, being so deep causes the waves to reach the coast with the same measurements, without reducing even a bit. Second: in front of the lighthouse there is a return current that makes the wave grow even larger. Finally, as if that were not enough, a counter-wave that comes from the beach towards the sea forms, which joins with the wave that was already coming and creates a peak that doubles the initial size of the wave. The result? An immense mountain of water.
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME?
Huge waves form in Nazaré all year round. However, if you want to leave with more impressive views, the best time to go is between November and February, which is the giant wave season. Want to know the best place to appreciate the waves? The Nazaré lighthouse is an ideal spot to see that mountain, which is why it is always so crowded. However, there is another place from which you will enjoy privileged views. It is a viewpoint, specifically the Mirador do Suberco. You can access it by car, although there is also a funicular available, which operates daily transporting many tourists.
HOW BIG WAS THE LARGEST WAVE?
In Nazaré, we are not surprised to see waves of 24 or 25 meters high. However, on days with very big seas, waves of 30 meters have formed. This size is monstrous, equivalent to an 8-story building. But in 2018, the record for the largest wave ever surfed was broken. Angus McDarrell, an Australian surfer only 22 years old, rode a sea wall of 42.6 meters, measured by the WSL (World Surf League), the biggest wave in the history of surfing. Until then, the record was held by big wave surfers Rodrigo Koxa and Garret McNamara with waves of 30 meters.
HOW TO SURF THIS WAVE?
Surfing big waves is not for just any surfer. You will have to wait a long time before daring to swim in such a sea. Surfing this wave is only possible for a few privileged ones. You have to be in almost unreachable physical conditions, and mentally it requires very high preparation. It is an extremely dangerous wave; not a single mistake can be made. You have to know how to control your fears in the best way, otherwise: don't even consider it. A prior study of the wave is necessary, knowing perfectly how this wave forms, the timing, all its details, to survive in case of a fall. Something vital for surfing this wave is breathing. You will have to train your breathing, because if something fails, you might have to hold your breath for up to 4 minutes. Important: in case of a wipeout or fall, the best thing is to curl up into a ball, count slowly, and stay calm... And for a complete immersion in surf culture, don't forget to equip yourself with the surf lycra that will provide you the protection and flexibility you need.
To surf such a big wave, you need the help of a jet ski. There are expert water pilots who take care of placing the surfer at the key point to ride the wave. But they perform an even riskier task: rescuing the surfers. If a bigwaver falls off the board, the pilot has to reach him, lift him with a special rescue sled, and escape the next wave. And all that in 10 seconds! And an even worse situation can happen: the surfer fails to surface. Then he must decide whether to return and escape the next wave or take the risk and wait to reach him. For this profession, it is just as necessary to keep a cool head as it is for the surfers themselves.
BEYOND THE BIG WAVES
If you want to surf medium-sized waves and have brought a car, we suggest a different plan. About 40 minutes away is the Peniche area, famous for its excellent surfing conditions. Peniche has wonderful beaches for surfing. If you decide to come, these are the beaches you absolutely have to visit:
- PRAIA DE SUPERTUBOS
It is the best-known beach in Peniche. Its main attraction is the barrel waves, as its name indicates. It is a surf temple, but we recommend it for experienced surfers, as these are not easy waves to surf. Every October it hosts the MEO RIP CURL PRO PORTUGAL, one of the most important surf championships worldwide.
- PRAIA DE CONSOLAÇAO
Although Supertubos takes all the spotlight, Consolaçao beach is perfect for enjoying a swim. This spot is a bit more demanding to surf, as the bottom is made of reef plates and there are usually quite big waves. If you like right-hand waves, this is your beach.
- PRAIA DE PORTO BATEL
Porto Batel is ideal for beginners. Waves break both left and right and it is quite sheltered, which is perfect when there is a lot of sea. If you can't go to the beach, practice with our surfskates, the best ally to train balance and surfing technique on asphalt.
- PRAIA DE MOLHO LESTE
This spot is located between Peniche and Supertubos. You can't always surf here, only when there is enough sea. In times of big sea, it is the favorite beach of many surfers, due to the long waves with barrels that form.
Now that you know why Nazaré is the biggest wave in the world, come and discover it. Nazaré has many things to see. Pack your suitcase and don't forget your cap to protect yourself from the sun, you will fall in love with this village and its sea.
Now that you know why Nazaré is the biggest wave in the world, come and discover it. Nazaré has many things to see. Pack your bags, you will fall in love with this town and its sea.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
- WHAT IS THE BIGGEST WAVE IN THE WORLD?
The waves of Nazaré in Portugal have broken the world record several times, surpassing the wave of Mavericks in California, Jaws in Hawaii...
- WHEN IS THE NAZARÉ WAVE?
In Nazaré huge waves occur all year round. However, the giant wave season takes place between November and February.
- HOW TALL ARE THE WAVES OF NAZARÉ?
In low season and with little sea there are usually waves of 7 meters. In high sea times they reach between 24 and 30m. The biggest wave recorded in Nazaré was 42.6m in 2018.
- WHERE TO SEE THE WAVES OF NAZARÉ?
From the Nazaré lighthouse you will have magnificent views. However, we recommend you go up to the Suberco viewpoint. It is much clearer and seeing the waves so close will impress you more.
- WHAT TO SEE IN NAZARÉ IN ONE DAY?
Nazaré, besides having its great wave, has many other attractions. You can take a walk to the cape of O Sitio, where its sunsets will captivate you. Wander through the town, soak up its charm, visit the fishing port, enter the old fish markets, book a table at one of its seafood restaurants… You have to go to the Suberco viewpoint, take the funicular…
- WHO SURFED THE BIGGEST WAVE IN NAZARÉ?
The biggest wave formed in 2018 and was surfed by Angus McDarrell, an Australian surfer only 22 years old. The wave measured 42.6 meters, an absolute madness. It was the biggest wave ever recorded in surfing history.
