Everything you need to know about waves for Surfing: Types of waves according to their outbreak, origin and formation

Lovers of extreme sports and adventure in the water only want one thing: waves, waves, and more waves! And that is that the weather can be whatever it is, but what is important is that the sea is in the ideal conditions to practice the sport that we love the most, and that the wind accompanies some waves that are good to tame.

What are waves?

By definition, a wave is a “wave of great amplitude that is formed on the surface of the water by wind or currents”. It is an "atmospheric phenomenon that produces a sudden variation in the temperature of a place." In this way, waves are ripples of water on the surface of the sea. The waves travel many kilometers along the surface of the sea at very varied speeds; they generally flow into the beaches.

However, for many, the waves are much more than that, they are the perfect opportunity to demonstrate their courage in the face of the force of nature and venture into some of the most extreme activities possible in our Earth planet. More than the possibility of doing sports or enjoying them in aquatic activities in the sea, the waves give us adventurers the possibility of facing one of the most satisfying challenges for all athletes who love life and nature. , whether you are a surfer, wakesurfer, windsurfer, kite surfer and what not.

How do waves originate?

The most common waves will originate depending on the strength of the wind, the time during which it is blowing and the ocean area affected by that wind. In this way, the most traditional waves originate from the friction of the wind on the surface of the sea, since the wind pushes the surface of the sea creating waves that offer resistance to the wind, which makes them go transforming into larger and larger undulations, feeding back for its formation and final breaking.

The gravity of the earth also plays a fundamental role in this equation, since after the wind raises the surface of the sea, gravity pushes it downwards again, so that as it goes up and down it accumulates a kinetic energy associated with the wave it forms.

THE SAID: The most common thing is that waves are formed by the wind, although the truth is that it depends on the conditions in which they occur and the way in which they are formed in the sea. There is a wider wave classification than you can imagine! Do you already know the different types of waves? Continue reading and discover all the types of waves that exist according to their different characteristics!

Discover the different types of waves that exist according to their outbreak, origin and formation!

CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES ACCORDING TO THE DIRECTION OF THEIR OUTBREAK (direction in which they break)

RIGHT WAVES

• When surfing it, we move to the right.
• They have a peak in the highest zone.
• Break progressively to the right.

LEFT WAVES

• When surfing them, we move to the left.
• They have a peak in the highest zone.
• Break progressively to the left

MIXED WAVES (PEAKS)

• It breaks in both directions.
• You choose whether to ride the wave from right to left or vice versa.
• It can be surfed by more than one surfer, one in each direction.

CERROTE WAVES

• The wave breaks completely at once,
• There is no wall and we cannot go anywhere in particular.
• They are waves that do not have a peak.
• Its entire length breaks at once.

CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES ACCORDING TO THE FORMATION OF THE WAVE

WIND WAVES

• They arise from the effect of the wind on the sea water.
• They are created a short distance from the coast and in a short time.
• Small and unstable, they break (outbreak) precipitously.
• They mix different directions, generally uncomfortable to surf.
• In areas with little swell, such as the Mediterranean, they are very good for surfing.

SWELL WAVES (BOTTOM SEA WAVES)

• Of good quality and size, they are not affected by the wind.
• They occur thousands of kilometers away from the place where they break (outbreak).
• Much stronger than the wind waves as they reach the shoreline.
• Since they occur at a great distance from the coast, it is easy to predict when they will reach the beach.

CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES ACCORDING TO THE TYPE OF SEA FLOOR

WAVES WITH SAND BOTTOM

• The wave breaks on a sandy bottom.
• They are less dangerous than the rest of the funds.
• They are waves unstable, they vary according to the tides and currents.

WAVES WITH A ROCK BOTTOM

• The wave breaks on a bottom of stone or rock.
• They are very stable funds, there are hardly any variations,
• Waves very constant, with similar peaks.
• These are dangerous bottoms, only for expert surfers.

WAVES WITH CORAL BOTTOM

• The wave breaks against a background of coral reefs.
• They have the same conditions as the rock bottoms.
• Coral is a living organism, with little growth, maintaining stability
• They occur in more oxygenated water, the bottom is easier to observe.

CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES ACCORDING TO THEIR CATEGORY

OSCILLATION WAVES (FREE WAVES)

• They are produced according to the variations of the sea level, they are formed on its surface.
• The water of the sea does not advance; they put a little spin on the site.
• They occur many kilometers from the coast.

WAVES OF TRANSLATION

• They occur when the sea advances and crashes against the seabed.
• Upon rising they vary the surface of the sea.
• They usually occur near the coast.
• They form a lot of foam when they break.

WAVES FORCED

• Forced waves are produced by the wind.
• They usually occur due to storms formed in the sea.
• They are not waves very stable, difficult to predict when they reach the coast.
• Difficult to surf.

SEISMIC WAVES (TSUNAMIS)

• Caused by an earthquake, volcanic explosion, and tectonic plate movement.
• The change in pressure modifies its size and produces waves with great force and dimension.
• Formed by large waves that travel at high speed on the high seas.

CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES ACCORDING TO THE SHAPE OF THEIR OUTBREAK (Shape of breaking)

HOLLOW WAVES

• The crest of the wave surpasses the base of the wave
• A cylindrical shape is generated inside.
• These waves are perfect for surfing.

Tubes

• Variation of hollow waves
• The upper part rises up and closes a tube inside.
• Surfers take their wall completely surrounded by it.

WAVY WAVES

• Its base is in advance of its highest part.
• Almost completely foam.
• They generally do not break (outbreak)
• They lack much slope.

SHORE WAVES

• They break (outbreak) very close to the shore.
• They are waves that can be very small or extremely gigantic
• They generally offer little space for surfing.
• Ideal for other types of surfing such as Skim (Skimboard).

Other tips to be a good surfer are the following:

1. Communication in the sea with other surfers to avoid any misunderstanding or minor accidents
2. Look closely at the spot to check which areas are more crowded and which are clearer to be able to enjoy the waves without problem
3. Try to catch smaller waves, this way you will surf even more

Finally, we are going to explain some key tricks to be able to catch a good wave, and enjoy the sensation of floating on the water!

It will be important that before going into the water to surf we do certain warm-up exercises in the sand, even on the board simulating that we are in the sea. This will help us maintain our balance and be better prepared to enjoy the waves.

First of all, you must place yourself at the exact point to catch the wave, this is about 4 or 5 meters from where most of them break. When you see the wave approaching you must start swimming on top of the board until you reach the speed of the wave. A minimum of 8 rows will be enough. When you are about to get up on the board it is recommended that you look over your shoulder to see how big the wave is that you are going to surf, it is an incredible feeling!

*Discover the 10 most incredible photons of waves and outbreaks here*

In scientific terms, waves are described as sources of energy generated by the force of the wind in an area of ​​the ocean and are technically called fect, but, as We have already seen, the creation of waves involves much more than that. It is thanks to a wide source of factors that its creation can take place, and it will also depend on that classification whether or not the waves are ideal for surfing or practicing other water sports on a board. Did you already know this broad type classification of waves? Tell us which are some of your favorites!

At the indian face® we are inspired every day by the beauty and the outside of nature, by the majestic breaking of the waves in the distance and their outbreak in rocky areas.