Lovers of extreme sports and water adventure only want one thing: waves, waves, and more waves! And the weather can be whatever it is, but the important thing is that the sea is in ideal conditions to practice the sport that we love the most, and that the wind accompanies some surf very good at taming.
What are waves?
By definition, a wave is a “wave of great amplitude that forms on the surface of the water due to wind or currents.” It is an “atmospheric phenomenon that produces a sudden variation in the temperature of a place.” In this way, waves are undulations of water on the surface of the sea. surf They travel many kilometres across the sea surface at very different speeds; they generally end up on beaches.
However, for many, the surf They are much more than that, they are the perfect opportunity to show your courage against the force of nature and venture into one of the most extreme activities possible on our planet Earth. More than the possibility of doing sports or enjoying water activities in the sea, the surf They give us adventurers the chance to face one of the most satisfying challenges for any athlete who loves life and nature, whether you are a surfer, wakesurfer, windsurfer, kitesurfer, etc.
How do waves originate?
The surf The most common ones will originate depending on the strength of the wind, the time during which it is blowing and the ocean area that the wind affects. In this way, the surf The most traditional ones are caused by the friction of the wind on the surface of the sea, as the wind pushes the surface of the sea creating waves that resist the wind, which causes them to transform into increasingly larger undulations, feeding back for their formation and final breaking.
The Earth's gravity also plays a fundamental role in this equation, since after the wind raises the surface of the sea, gravity pushes it back down, so that as it rises and falls, kinetic energy associated with the wave it forms is accumulated.
AS SAID: The most common thing is that the surf They are formed by the wind, although the truth is that it depends on the conditions in which they occur and the way in which they are formed in the sea. There is a wave classification wider than you imagine! Do you already know the different types of surfContinue reading and discover all the types of waves that exist according to their different characteristics!
Discover the different types of waves that exist according to their outbreak, origin and formation!
CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES ACCORDING TO THE DIRECTION OF THEIR OUTBREAK (direction in which they break)
RIGHT WAVES
- When surfing it, we move to the right.
- They have a peak in the highest area.
- It breaks progressively to the right.
LEFT WAVES
- When surfing them, we move to the left.
- They have a peak in the highest area.
- Breaks progressively to the left
MIXED WAVES (PEAKS)
- It breaks in both directions.
- You choose whether to surf the wave from right to left or vice versa.
- It can be surfed by more than one surfer, one in each direction.
CLOSE WAVES
- The wave breaks completely suddenly,
- It has no wall and we can't go anywhere in particular.
- Are surf that do not have a beak.
- Its entire extension breaks at once.
CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES ACCORDING TO THE FORMATION OF THE WAVE
WIND WAVES
- They arise from the effect of the wind on sea water.
- They are created close to the coast and in a short time.
- Small and unstable, they break (outbreak) in a hasty manner.
- They mix different directions, generally uncomfortable to surf.
- In areas with little swell, such as the Mediterranean, they are very good for surfing.
SWELL WAVES (SEA WAVES)
- Good quality and size, not affected by the wind.
- They occur thousands of kilometers away from the place where they break (outbreak).
- Much stronger than wind waves when they reach the coast.
- Since they occur at a great distance from the coast, it is easy to predict when they will reach the beach.
CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES ACCORDING TO THE TYPE OF SEABED
WAVES WITH SANDY BOTTOM
- The wave breaks on a sandy bottom.
- They are less dangerous than the rest of the funds.
- Are surf unstable, they vary according to the tides and currents.
WAVES WITH ROCK BOTTOM
- The wave breaks on a rock or stone bottom.
- They are very stable funds, there are hardly any variations,
- Surf very constant, with similar peaks.
- These are dangerous seabeds, only for expert surfers.
WAVES WITH CORAL BOTTOM
- The wave breaks on a coral reef background.
- They have the same conditions as the rock bottoms.
- Coral is a living organism, with little growth, maintaining stability
- They occur in more oxygenated waters, the bottom is easier to observe.
CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES ACCORDING TO THEIR CATEGORY
OSCILLATION WAVES (FREE WAVES)
- They are produced according to variations in sea level and form on the surface.
- The sea water does not advance; they make a small turn in place.
- They occur many kilometers from the coast.
TRANSFER WAVES
- They occur when the sea advances and crashes against the seabed.
- When they rise, they change the surface of the sea.
- They generally occur near the coast.
- They form a lot of foam when broken.
FORCED WAVES
- The surf forced are produced by the wind.
- They usually occur due to storms formed at sea.
- They are not surf very stable, difficult to predict when they will reach the coast.
- Difficult to surf.
SEISMIC WAVES (TSUNAMIS)
- Caused by an earthquake, volcanic explosion and movement of tectonic plates.
- The change in pressure modifies its size and produces waves with great force and dimension.
- Formed by large waves that travel at high speed on the high seas.
CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES ACCORDING TO THE SHAPE OF THEIR OUTBREAK (Shape of breaking)
HOLLOW WAVES
- The crest of the wave exceeds its base.
- A cylindrical shape is generated inside.
- Are surf perfect for surfing.
Tubes
- Variation of the surf hollow
- The top part lifts up and closes a tube inside.
- Surfers take to the wall completely surrounded by it.
Wavy waves
- Its base is further forward than its highest part.
- Almost completely foam.
- They generally do not break (outbreak)
- They lack much slope.
SHORE WAVES
- They break (outbreak) very close to the shore.
- Are surf which can be very small or extremely gigantic
- They generally offer little space for surfing.
- Ideal for other types of surfing such as Skim (Skimboarding).
Other tips for being a good surfer are the following:
- Communication at sea with other surfers to avoid any misunderstandings or minor accidents
- Take a good look at the spot to check which areas are busiest and which are clearest so you can enjoy the waves without any problem.
- Try to catch smaller waves, this way you will surf even more
Finally, we are going to explain some key tricks to be able to catch a good wave, and enjoy the sensation of floating on the water!
Before we get into the water to surf, it is important to do some warm-up exercises on the sand, or even on the board, simulating that we are in the sea. This will help us maintain our balance and be better prepared to enjoy the waves.
First of all, you need to position yourself in the exact spot to catch the wave, which is about 4 or 5 meters from where most of them break. When you see the wave approaching, you should start swimming on the board until you reach the speed of the wave. A minimum of 8 strokes will be enough. When you are about to get up on the board, it is recommended that you look over your shoulder to see how big the wave you are going to surf is, it is an incredible sensation!
*Discover the 10 most incredible photons of waves and outbreaks here*
In scientific terms, the surf They are described as energy generating sources formed by the force of the wind in an area of the ocean and which is technically called fect, but, as we have already seen, the creation of the surf They involve much more than that. It is thanks to a wide source of factors that their creation can take place, and it will also depend on that classification that the surf whether or not they are ideal for surfing or practicing other water sports on a board. Did you already know about this wide range of classification of types of surf? Tell us what some of your favorites are!
In The Indian Face ® We are inspired every day by the beauty and strength of nature, by the majestic breaking of the waves in the distance and by their outbreak in rocky areas...
